Budslau: heavenly light, earthly fire

A few days ago I spent the morning driving and thinking about a new point on the map to tell you about. What could it be? Blossoming meadows along picturesque river banks? Severe monuments to heroes of WWII? Ancient pagan sanctuaries with moss covered stones? Old cemeteries carefully tidied up and decorated on spring commemoration days?..

This spring turned to be unpredictable and guileful. It teased us with promises of warmth and sunlight but then surprised with untimely snowfalls and hail. Everyone and everything were waiting for sunlight and warmth. Finally, the sun generously poured its life-giving rays down, and everything changed in a couple of days. Delicate sprouts straining towards the light, shining spatter of young leaves, fragrant clouds of blossoming orchards – this was the respond of the grateful earth. I stopped in the forest penetrated by bright and warm rays, breathed greenery and – for the first time this year – pine resin melted by the sun. I felt peace and solemnity, like if it was a centuries-old cathedral on the eve of a holiday. And that moment I thought: certainly, I should tell them about Budslau!

Then I drove on recalling this ancient place, its impressive history and grandiose cathedral with a magic-working icon – the national sanctuary for all the Roman-Catholic believers in Belarus, and a destination drawing thousands of pilgrims from across Belarus and the world.

Having arrived home I discovered that many people were thinking and talking about Budslau that day with desperation and tears in their eyes. That very morning a fire occurred in the famous church, an architectural landmark from the 18^th century. The roof burnt down and fell in. And many people then recalled another spring day back in 2019 when the whole world got to know about the fire in Notre-Dame de Paris. They said that the incident in Budslau became the tragedy of the same kind for Belarusian Christians.

But why is this place so revered by believers? Actually, Budslau is first mentioned in chronicles in 1504, when four monks came to this place hidden among thick forests and marches and built the first wooden chapel there. A romantic local legend says that on July, 2, 1588, a shining cloud appeared above this place. In its middle, the monks saw Madonna with the Child who promised everlasting patronage and blessing to this place. The happy and overwhelmed monks didn’t know of course that another remarkable event happened the same year: Minsk governor Jan Pac received an icon of Mother of God right from the Pope. He worshipped the icon and always carried it with himself until his death. And then, one of Pac’s descendants donated the icon to Budslau.

This ancient icon features Virgin Saint Mary with baby Jesus holding a pomegranate – the fruit symbolizing death and resurrection, the great gift of eternal life, unity of believers.

Short time passed since the icon had arrived to Budslau. And numerous wonderful stories started spreading across the surrounding. They told about a blind boy who regained his sight due to the icon and then became a priest, about a dead born baby who started breathing after being brought to the Budslau church, about a girl who sank and stayed breathless for several hours but revived due to sincere prayer of her family before the magic-working icon… Back in 1650, a whole book of such stories described in detail was published.

In the 17^th century, the first stone church was erected in Budslau. Several decades later, a grandiose basilica was added to it. After that, the building, inner frescoes, icons and carved wooden altar painted black and gold virtually never changed. It is really surprising, since numerous wars that unfolded in the Belarusian lands brought whole cities into ruins and ashes. Through its long history, the Church and its faithful people have gone through many trials and much suffering; however, it has endured and preserved the message of God's greatness and splendor for those who believed. During WWII, although the front crossed this area three times, no bomb touched Budslav. Moreover, regardless of their religion and ethnicity, Catholics, Orthodox and Jews from neighboring areas all found a shelter there. Attempts of the Soviet authorities to blow up the sanctuary were unsuccessful. The locals are sure that the God’s Mother herself protected the church.

Obviously, pilgrims started coming to bow to the magic-working icon in Budslau with requests and gratitude long ago. I couldn’t find out when the tradition of annual solemnities here emerged. However, the oldest residents of the village told that pilgrims came there “in time of the Tsar, also of Poland and of the Soviets” – it means that at least throughout the 20^th century, even when it was officially forbidden, people came to worship the famous icon.

In 1992, the pilgrimage was officially permitted by the authorities and the tradition of annual festivity in Budslau revived. In 1998, the icon of Saint Virgin was solemnly crowned and proclaimed a national sanctuary. Every year, up to 30 thousand pilgrims arrive to Budslau from every corner of Belarus and from abroad to take part in the solemnities commemorating the wonderful Marian apparition. In 2018, this tradition was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative list of the intangible cultural heritage of the humanity.

Nowadays, approaching Budslau, you will see the towers of its church dominating over the surrounding. Approaching it, you will get impressed with the contrast between small village houses and this majestic baroque stone building. Even today we, the people who are not surprised with skyscrapers, catch ourselves thinking that it was brought here from some other space, other culture, other dimension. We can only imagine the emotions of the locals who saw that huge temple and passed it by centuries ago. But maybe, only this way the realm of the heavenly divine light could look? However, the feeling of disproportion disappears every summer, when in early July, thousands and thousands of pilgrims arrive here, come to the square before the temple and light up candles in their hands. Then it resembles a ship slowly moving amid the river of fire. Then it is commensurate with the scale of the solemnity.

Looking at the Budslau church on a common black-letter day, you catch yourself thinking that it waits patiently for thousands of pilgrims. And maybe, it was even erected centuries ago to welcome and bless them once a year. In their turn, those who come here every summer – alone and with little children, being healthy or ill, by comfortable cars or many miles on foot – wait for the next July pilgrimage cherishing the inspiring memories in their hearts. They recall meetings with friends, prayers making them forget about fatigue and blisters, little birdies flying inside the church and trying to sit on the details of frescoes – so realistic they look, hospitable local people ready to share their meal and lodging with the pilgrims.

Budslau is the place that gave thousands of people the feeling of unity and belief in the true power of heavenly light in every single heart. And now, in their turn, they are ready to overcome their grief and heal the wounds inflicted by earthly fire.

Sincerely yours,

Volha Blazhevich

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