Lahoisk: sultry day in the old park

Summer heat kept on beating all records. Grass withered, birds hid in shadow. Echoes of distant thunderstorms was herd sometimes, but life-giving rains passed by, and even night didn’t bring long-awaited freshness. The weather made us leave the big city searching for comfort.

Thick greenery of trees and transparent cold water – this is a dream of anyone suffering of sultriness. And I know a point on the map where one will find it in abundance. That day we arrived in Lahoisk.

This small town lies to the North-East of Minsk in a picturesque valley among impressive emerald hills overgrown with pinewood. Scientists say, 40 million years ago a meteorite fell there. It was a stone about 650 meters in diameter. Thus, the valley is nothing by a huge crater 15 kilometers wide. They say the structure of local ground is also very special: layers of soil are permanently moving venting ground waters here and there. It seems impossible, however, historical sources and recollections of old people testify: throughout the past 100-150 years, wallows, lakes, springs and even rivers emerged and disappeared in Lahoisk and its surroundings.

Actually, the town is famous for its springs flowing with cold, transparent and tasty water. In the 19^th century it was believed to have healing properties, and people came to Lahoisk from far away for treatment and recreation. The local people, however, say that the springs are capricious as allegedly they can unpredictably disappear and later emerge in a new place.

The most famous and strongest spring streams from the castle hill near the church. We drank some water, washed our hands and faces, bought some fragrant forest raspberries and hot home-baked rye bread from the locals and went to see the ancient park.

The history of Lahoisk is long. It embraces no less than 10 centuries. And its traces are distinct in the old park on a river bank. Long, long ago there was a castle here. It was destroyed during one of numerous wars 300 years back. But the high castle hill with ramparts has persisted up to now, though overgrown with huge trees. Believe me, it is not easy to climb up the embankment, especially if it is hard to breathe because of heat! I am sure that 200 years ago this unusual landscape excited the imagination of count Pius Tyszkiewicz who owned the town and decided to build his new family residence here.

Early 19^th century was the epoch of European Romanticism that evoked a vivid interest in heroic past, hoary legends, memory of the native land and local folklore. I don't have any evidence to that, but I can easily imagine Pius Tyszkkiewicz – a man of ancient lineage, magnate, marshal of nobility, talented musician, researcher of his family history and collector of antiquities – purposefully choosing this place with its unique historical aura. He erected his majestic snow-white palace in a picturesque point next to the castle hill and founded an English park there. Pius Tyszkiewicz was nearly 60 when the new residence was finished. However, he lived to be a 100 years, and obviously observed the rows of trees planted by him turning into shady alleys that two centuries later gave us shelter on that sultry day.

I am sure old Tyszkiewicz was proud of his two sons, too. Kanstancin and Yaustakh took after their father’s patriotism and vivid interest in the history of their family and their country. They occupied themselves with historical research and built up an impressive collection of antiquities including about 3 thousand books, of which about 500 blackletter ones, ancient manuscripts, over a thousand ancient coins and medals, a cross of gold and silver made in the 16^th century, saber of Russian tsar Peter I, 200 pieces by painters from Rome, Florence and Naples, pictures and sketches by Polish, Russian, Belarusian artists, a collection of Etruscan vases excavated in Pompeii and Herculaneum, a collection of archeological findings excavated by one of the family’s relatives in Egypt… These precious rarities occupied several halls of the Lahoisk palace. And finally, in 1842, brothers Tyszkiewiczes made their collection available to the wide public. Actually, it was the first public museum of antiquities in Belarus.

Everyone who saw the Lahoisk collection of rarities was deeply impressed. However, brothers Tyszkiewiczes were not satisfied: they realized that their family residence is too far from big cities and educational centers where it could be much more useful. Having got the permission of the authorities of the Russian Empire, they started working on foundation of a museum in Vilna, the present-day Lithuanian capital city (Vilnius) and former capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1856, the museum opened in the library of the Vilna University and immediately became extremely popular: thousands of visitors came to see the exposition, classes for students and meetings of scientists took place there. Historically, later some exhibits were taken to Russia, others turned out in Polish museums. Anyway, nothing was returned to Belarus. The wonderful white palace built by Pius Tyszkiewicz was destroyed during WWII, save only a piece of romantic ruins on a hill. And today we can only imagine the bygone glory of Lahoisk and its surroundings as we walk along the alleys of the old park…

However, there is always something that stays the same. The old park, they say, was once famous for its springs of fresh and healing water. Their murmuring was heard everywhere. And, though the local springs are believed to be migrating, one of them is still there. 200 years ago, old count Tyszkiewicz harnessed it to create a picturesque stream with cascades, small ponds, stone bridges and a fountain. This system is still functioning. Huge trees still hide us from sizzling sunshine. And, getting here, it is so easy to imagine the former owners of the park and the non-existent palace… It seems I would not be surprised to meet someone of them in one of alleys. What would I say to them? I would say I am grateful. For the business of their lives, for good memory. For simple and common things: the greenery of the trees and the freshness of the water.

Sincerely yours,

Volha Blazhevich

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