Synkavichy: harverst time

Again and again heartwarming memories of that generous August day come to me. Late summer is always ambiguous: it is warm and tender, it puts its fragrant and juicy gifts right in our hands. Its sunshine is still bright. But as the sun goes down, a soft smell of wormwood and a thin shawl of fog remind us of the upcoming autumn.

That day I helped my relatives with their orchard, cooked fresh and ripe vegetables picked right in their kitchen garden and went on a short afternoon journey to the town of Slonim and its surroundings. And certainly, I could not miss the occasion to see once again one of my favorite Belarusian landscapes in the village of Synkavichy.

Actually, this is a popular tourist destination today. The church consecrated in honor of Michael the Archangel is one of few and rare examples of fortified Orthodox temples in Belarus. It looks like a small castle indeed, and its history is fraught with secrets. One of them is about the time of the church’s foundation.

Some historians believe, it was erected in the early 16^th century. Others insist that the church is much older referring to inscriptions in Latin and Old Greek discovered on its walls.

However, the most loved and famous version sounds rather like a legend. It tells that in the late 14^th century, great Lithuanian duke Yahaila started a military campaign against his uncle Keistut and his cousin Vitaut the Great. They were strong rivals, and Yahaila decided to jockey them. As a result, he imprisoned his relatives and killed his uncle. But Vitaut managed to escape having put a woman’s dress on. He found shelter not far from the town of Slonim and thus evaded death. Vitaut never forgot the assistance of the local people due to whom he survived. And, as a sign of his gratitude, he built the church in Synkavichy and attended its consecration in 1407.

Those who are fond of history certainly appreciate the famous temple as a living evidence to heroic and romantic past. At the same time, believers come here even from far away to bow to an icon of God’s Mother painted by monks from Athos holy mountain. They believe, it is magic working and helps to get rid of clinical depression, drug addiction and even oncologic diseases.

The church in Synkavichy stands away from the village. There is a local belief that before, it was situated on an island. Indeed, the building itself, accompanied with a chapel and expressive trees, surrounded with a stone fence, looks like an oasis among the vast expanse of sloping hills and fields.

I came up to the church. Its gilded crosses and the image of Michael the Archangel – the white-winged warrior of light – shone in sunrays. Rough redbrick walls were warmed up by sunrays outside. I came in. People were praying in half-light, it smelled incense and wax, burning candles illuminated carved wooden iconostases, gilded icons and concentrated faces. I looked at it, rose my eyes to the high gothic vaults – and couldn’t even take my camera out of the case… It would be inappropriate to disturb the praying people with sounds of the shutter.

I got out of the temple and looked around. Surprisingly, after the twilight inside the church, the afternoon August sun didn’t seem blinding. Its light was thick and aureate, like fresh honey. It slowly fell from above and flowed down walls, trees, roads, stubble fields recalling the whisper of ripe ears, orchards full of apples... I went around the church and suddenly, my ear caught quiet but unstoppable buzz. What a surprise – bees, these untiring workers, settled in a hollow right inside the one-and-a-half-meter thick wall and carried their sweet harvest there. These little creatures symbolizing unity and labor, Spirit and resurrection chose the church as their home. There, they bring their honey – the symbol of divinity, grace and sacral knowledge.

Indeed, wonderful signs and images come to those searching for joy and consolation on the go. And this is another little share of my harvest of impressions I share with you.

Sincerely yours,

Volha Blazhevich